If one is on the way to a "Head to Tail" Dinner - there's only one logical choice for lunch. Pork, lots of it in many forms. Do not resist the fleischgeist.
After many wonderful meals in New Orleans, including a fantastic meal at Cochon, it was a quick turn around and off to New York.
Other recent converts to the divine Cochon include James Beard Foundation savants, food writers and personalities Anthony Bourdain and Michael Ruhlman, and New York Times critic, Frank Bruni. Whatever your opinions about any of those characters, it's impossible to ignore that Chefs Link and Styljewski are onto something. The people have spoken and the “flieschgeist” will not be denied.
New Orleans is beginning to change shape and sadly, to fade from my dreams. It's been two weeks after all. Soon, some of the piles of notes and jumbles of thoughts will coalesce into stories.
For now, another couple of gods in the pantheon of heavenly food must get their due. Both David Chang and Chris Cosentino are receiving accolades too numerous to mention here. Interestingly, both are doing straightforward food that celebrates the whole beast. Both take traditional dishes and do just the right amount of tinkering to elevate something from wonderfully comforting and familiar, to thrilling.
Lunch at Momofuku Noodle Bar
Before heading to Chef Chris Cosentino's Head to Tail dinner at the newly inaugurated Astor Center, where else would one go for lunch but to Momofuku? Acclaimed Chef David Chang (who edged out Cosentino of Incanto, and Martin Picard of Montreal's Au Pied de Cochon; for one of the First Annual Golden Clog Awards) has been hailed by many critics and writers, including Food and Wine; Bon Appetit, Gourmet Magazine and so on.
In response to complaints by vegetarians that he didn't have sufficient number of vegetarian dishes when he first opened, Chef Chang actually removed all vegetarian options but one from his menu. “Ginger Scallion – noodles seasonal vegetable” The asterisk notes “No Broth, our only vegetarian option.” This is a man who is serious about his pork. He was one of the first to sing the praises of Allan Benton's ham, and that tells you something. The menu was being changed as we were seated due to the first oysters (Barron Points, Skookum Inlet WA) offered having run out. West Coast Oysters, Chef? You had me at (Benton's) ham.
Near Perfection
This food was amazing, well thought-out, deliciously executed with one quizzical flaw, a bowl of hard rice. About the last thing one would expect from an Asian chef. Don't let that stop you. This was an anomaly based on the perfection of everything else sampled. If food can arouse such primal urges as this did, it's not to be missed. Skip the rice, if you're worried.
From the Cold “First” Courses:
Effingham, BC oysters with spicy pickled fennel - wonderful, light mignonette
Seasonal pickles – Napa, Tokyo turnip, Asian Pear, Shiitake - who knew pickles could seem so new and interesting?
From the Hot:
Steamed Pork Buns – pork belly, thin cucumber slices and hoisin. These will remind you why you are not a vegetarian and of everything that is perfect about Peking Duck, but better.
Fried Veal Sweetbreads – salted cucumbers, sweet chili sauce - light and perfect
Grilled Beef Tongue – mustard, charred onions, dill pickles
From the “& Last” Courses:
Momofuku Ramen – pork combo, poached egg – This ramen, at first bite, instantly called to mind the first ramen eaten in Tokyo. A rare food memory experience, but a powerful one. Remember Anton Ego's first bite of Ratatouille?
From the “Etc.” Courses:
Deep fried Maple Crest Chicken (South Carolina) half or whole orders - brilliant
Everything, except the rice, was perfect. A second order of pork buns did not create less rapture than the first. Quite a feat after so many flavors and textures had danced on our tongues.
To read more about David Chang:
Despite Alan Richman's recent and deserved criticism, this is an engaging article on Chef Chang he wrote for GQ.
